Dazed Digital: What are we seeing tonight? Rad Hourani: I wanted to do a study on the colour blue, so the only colour that you saw today was blue in all its shades. Navy blue, purple blue, light blue, baby blue, dark blue, black blue…all the shades. I like the idea of using one color every season, the last collection was a study on grey and this collection I wanted to work more from darkness to lightness.
DD: Why the color blue? Rad Hourani: I feel extremely thankful and happy for everything that’s been happening to me and I wanted to celebrate self-love and self care, I feel blue reflects that. It’s healthy, medical, positive; it’s something that’s very intuitional and a color of being healthy and taking care of yourself. I feel like that’s why I put it there.
DD: How do the shapes fit into that theme? Rad Hourani : I’ve always liked the idea of transformation, so the collection is actually six pieces transformed into 22 pieces. I wanted to work a lot on the tuxedo shape and how one reads the tail in the front and back - like sometimes the front of the pant is shorter than the back and vice versa; I wanted to work on these kinds of proportions. It’s also something seasonless and classical, a bit preppy but not in a bourgeois way, in a modern timeless way.
DD: What is the importance of designing unisex? Rad Hourani: Everything that I do is always unisex, so every piece is in the group is made for men and women. I wanted to show different personalities with this show - I went extremely sensual, extremely feminine, extremely masculine - and it’s to show that you can wear it the way you want it. I love the idea of people who don’t put limits on things or put things in one category, and I think this collection is also to show that you can do it your way.
“Ah yes, that’s my only lazy attitude. I started wearing black when I was 15 or 16 and at that time it was very much a rebellion thing for a young girl to do. The colour of the poets, strong, different. Of course, that’s all old news now. But it’s still the most poetic, the strongest colour for me. Everybody has tried very hard, but it is not easy to replace black.”—Ann Demeulemeester
“To be honest, I don’t have a certain reference. I’m not referring to a certain period in time nor to a certain character. My inspiration comes more from a philosophical and poetic background. I’m trying to protect the body by creating all this layering. The soft clothes are following the body shape. I want to be very sensitive and at the same time I want to create a certain rawness. By being very focused and working on one image I want to create certain classics. Everything I do is very conscious. I always work with a concept. I try to bring a certain relevance in my work. I believe with relevance there is no sense in it.”—Damir Doma
“I don’t consider my clothes androgynous at all. There is tension in human beings between the feminine and the masculine elements, and that is intriguing. I am not saying that I like masculine women or feminine men. I believe these elements are intertwined in everyone. Possessing something aggressive and fragile creates a contrast, and if I succeed in putting that contrast into a garment, it comes to life. Some say that putting a woman in trousers, a vest, and boots is androgynous. I don’t feel that way. I don’t put men in skirts, but I have put men in pink trousers or a jacket with flowers, which are not classic men’s items. I think that fragility in men is beautiful. It’s not for everyone, but I like different men. I always make collections where there is a choice in sensibility, something that my father, my husband, and my son can wear. I try to stay close to human beings. I want to make beautiful and wearable garments.”